dp's blog
Type 1 Will Cross on Makalu
According to everestnews.com, Will Cross is expected to be on Makalu this season:
"...At 8,481m (27,824ft) Makalu ranks as the fifth highest mountain in the world. Will Cross departs for this monumental peak as part of his Giant Mountain Challenge; a quest to climb six of the highest peaks in the world. All are located in the Himalaya and all are above 8000m (26,246 ft). The purpose of this challenge is to demonstrate that one can lead an extraordinary life with diabetes, an incurable condition and a global pandemic.
Link to sleep deprivation article amd insulin sensitivity
Relevant for those D alpinists and/or expedition climbers.....
http://care.diabetesjournals.org/content/early/2010/03/24/dc09-2317.abstract
Challenge isn't always in the hills
Just thought I'd share the obituary of my mom with you. Some here have met her; others heard about her; and some of you either gave her assurances but usually were implicated by the (generally) dissaproving glances when I told her I was going on a(nother) trip....
Another Type 1 summit on Cho Oyu
Geri Winkler along with others from Alpine Ascents reached the summit of Cho Oyu yesterday. Looks like Geri succeeded in doing it without supplemental O2.
dp
Here is from the Alpine Ascents cybercast:
Geri Winkler and Will Cross on Cho Oyu
Hey there.
Looks like Geri Winkler has his sights on an "alpine-style" ascent of Cho Oyu and his summit window should be sometime at the end of September 2009. Guess he wants to join the ranks of Ernest (G2 1999), Marco (Cho Oyu 2002), and Boyan (G1, G2? 2009) to have reached the magical 8000 m+ without supplemental oxygen and....oh yeah, type 1, almost forgot.
And it looks like Will Cross has his heart set on both Cho Oyu (perhaps he'll run into Geri?) and Shishapangma in fall 2009, not certain in what style or with whom.
From Boyan on G2
Now we have more details here with photos
http://www.everestnews.com/pak2009/g2009032009.htm
Wow, Boyan, I hope you are feeling better after the crevasse fall. Thanks to the Spanish and porters!
Boyan G1 pics and more
http://www.climbingguidebg.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file...
Some videos, too. Hone up on your Bulgarian, although there is some English.
Diabetic 8000 Double Header W/OUT Os !!!
Boyan has gone ahead and summitted G2 solo. That makes two 8000-ers without oxygen in less than a week.
What, is he gonna go run up K2 next?!
Come home safely Boyan and come show us some pictures at MADiDEA 2010 in Italy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Incredible, but not surprising...
"2 August, 2009: First Bulgarian double-header in highest mountain
BOYAN SUMMITS G1!
Looks like Boyan reached the summit of G1 yesterday morning.
From Peter Petrov -
"Bulgarians Nilolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov, Boyan Petrov, Nikolay Valkov have summited Gasherbrum 1 on Sunday morning, July 26, 2009 with Veikka Gustafson (Finland) and Kazuya Hiraide (Japan). They started climbing at 00.30 LT and reached the summit at around 08.00 o’clock. At present Bulgarians are in Camp 3 (7070m). They’ll descent do BL [BC?, dp],tomorrow. Peter"
Safe travels home, Boyan, and congratulations!
Boyan down from C3, What Next?
"Yesterday, members of the Bulgarian Gasherbrum I expedition descended from Camp 3 (7100m) to Base Camp as a result of bad weather (very strong wind and fall of snow). "
Sounds like if there is a weather window this week and the snow up high can stabilize, Boyan Petrov and team will have a great chance to summit.

